Today Jean-Luc Dischamp, third generation owner, continues the tradition of Maître Affineur by aging the five PDO cheeses of Auvergne: Fourme d’Ambert, Cantal, Salers, Bleu d’Auvergne and Saint Nectaire.
Auvergne, the heart of France
The French describe the Auvergne region as “la France profonde” (deepest France), a place where the country’s values, represented by a closeness to the land and the pleasures of foods, are thought to be enshrined. As early as the 1st century BC, the Romans were impressed by the quality of local cheeses and took them to Rome for the enjoyment of the wealthy citizens.
Auvergne borders a vast mountain range of extinct volcanoes called Massif Central which are covered with shaded green forests and pastures. A wealth of flora thrives thanks to a pristine terroir: rich fertile soil and an abundant supply of pure mineral water. In the sparsely populated mountains, there is a long tradition of dairy farming. Cheese is regarded as a staple food and is a cornerstone of Auvergne’s cuisine served today even in most Parisian bistros.
Cheeses
Cantal “Entre-Deux”
(raw milk, aged 3-7 months)
One of France’s oldest cheeses, dating back over 2,000 years. It is a big drum-
shaped cheese, similar to English Cheddar. A high quality Cantal is the reflection of a good affineur, who turns and rubs cheeses with salt to achieve the his signature flavor profile. Cantal has a thin beige rind which is dry and powdery and darkens with age. The paste is pale yellow in color and smooth in texture. The cheese has a buttery aroma with yeasty, meaty and spicy undertones and a lingering tangy finish. Raw milk Cantal has a floral earthiness and greater depth of flavor than the pasteurized version. Pair with Malbec, Rioja, Southern Rhône, Corbières, Costières de Nimes.
weight: 88 lb; also available in quarters (22 lb)
Cantal “Entre-Deux”Saint Nectaire
Semi-soft washed rind cheese from the village with the same namesake. The rind is composed of a variety of molds which impart a distinct aroma of dead leaves and cave air onto the cheese. The paste is yellow with sweet notes of grass and hay and a distinct peanut finish. Pair with Pouilly Fumé, Rhône valley wines, Bordeaux or Chianti.
weight: 6/1.2 lb; 4/3.9 lb
Saint Nectaire Fondue
A new riff on a classic: half rounds of St Nectaire in a ceramic crock, ready for baking.
After 20 minutes at 400 degrees, it turns into a “crème brulée” like cheese with a crusty top and creamy center. Dip bread, charcuterie and vegetables. weight: 10/9.9 oz
Bleu D’Auvergne
Bleu d’Auvergne is a full bodied blue cheese inspired by Roquefort but made with cow’s milk in the heart of the Massif Central. It is produced in a short cylinder. The rind is thin and the paste is rich and creamy with a pretty ivory color. There are a few holes scattered throughout the paste with distributed greenish-blue veining. The cheese has a sharp aroma and a spicy flavor with a hint of herbs and melted butter. The overall flavor is piquant but not sharp: a cheese with an extraordinary personality. Pair with Madiran, sweet dessert wines or fortified wines. weight: 2/5.5 lb; 4/2.75 lb
Fourme D’Ambert
This cheese takes its name from the mold traditionally used to shape cheeses around thevillage of Ambert. Legend has it that Gallic druids used it in their rituals! The rind is rough gray to reddish. The paste is pale yellow with erratic patches of really blue mold. The texture is rich and buttery with a subtle flavor of roasted hazelnut. This cheese is more supple and dense than most blues with perfume of fruit and wood and a savory nutty flavor. Very mild, it is often referred as the “connoisseur’s blue cheese” because its flavor works well with all other cheeses. Pair with Rosés, Malbec, Burgundy, Rhône, Port or sweet dessert wines. weight: 4/4.8 lb